?`s and ANNEswers

Ten minutes to write. Less time to read.

Chichen Itza

Our last shore excursion was a full day trip to the Mayan ruins at Chichen Izta on Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula. I’d been interested in the Mayans since sixth grade when my best friend, Carol, and I, began reading about them and the Egyptians. She made it to Egypt; I made it to Mexico.

We spent more time traveling from the ship to Chichen Itza than we spent at the actual site, but it was still worth it for an introductory view into this culture.  Our main guide was of Mayan descent himself, and he was proud to share his wealth of information about his ancestors.

For their time (pre-Columbus) in history, the Mayans had an advanced civilization steeped in astrology, mathematics, and religion.  They identified five of the planets we know today; they created accurate calendars before the Gregorian calendar was generally adopted; and they believed in many Gods and in reincarnation.  They also believed in human sacrifice, which prompted one woman in our group to exclaim, “They were a horrible people.”

Yet, they built what you could call a city today, complete with several temples to their Gods, an arena for their favorite games, and platforms to celebrate both dancing and death. They wrote books, and three have survived to this day.

The Mayans were ultimately obliterated by the Spaniards in the fifteenth century, but the ruins they left behind are testimony to the sophistication of their culture, human sacrifice notwithstanding. If I ever go back, it will be to spend at least a couple days instead of a couple hours.

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Orion and Deysi

I have mixed feelings about keeping animals in captivity so that humans can pet them or shake hands or throw appropriate food or, the epitome, ride them. Even under the kindest conditions, the animals are not in their natural homes.

Still, there are animals I would never have seen were it not for zoos and other artificial habitats. Which is why I swallowed my “political correctness” and signed up to get in a tank with Orion, a five-tear-old male dolphin, and his assistant, Deysi (pronounced Daisy).

It was raining in Costa Maya when we got to the Dolphin Discovery Center.  But we were getting into water anyway, so we ignored it as Deysi showed us how to enter the salt-water tank and stand at the edge while she introduced her protégé by having him leap into the air several times.  We’ve all seen it on TV, but it never fails to draw a collective breath.

For the next half hour, Deysi provided much information about dolphins in general and her friend in particular. Orion let us pet him, shake hands, and hug him . . . all while a photographer was snapping away.  Neither Earl nor I were so naïve to imagine this experience was about understanding dolphin behavior as much as it was a lucrative photo opportunity for the Discovery Center.

I must confess Earl and I have done the dolphin thing in Jamaica and Venezuela, so you are probably thinking that — given my opening paragraph – I am a hypocrite. I agree, and I’ve decide this was the last time I’d do this. Fortunately, Orion and Deysi were the best.

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Grand Cayman

The last time we were in Grand Cayman was shortly after Hurricane Ivan devastated the island. That was probably ten or so years ago; although a lot of the shore excursions were cancelled, our cruise ship stopped to show support for the island’s rebuilding. We took a bus tour of the area back then to see not only skeletal homes but also destroyed beaches and decimated marine life.

Today we went back, and the first thing we saw was a rebuilt downtown area and matching port.  There were also four other cruise ships anchored in the bay. And even though the Hard Rock Café and Jimmy Buffet’s were front and center, I was happy to see a bustling community.

We went to snorkel in the warm waters off shore and the second surprise was the water temperature.  Over that past year, my interest in swimming has declined because the temperature at the pools back home is cooler than my comfort level.  The pools on board the ship have the same problem.  So I’ve been contemplating hanging up my goggles and fins.

Until today.  The water this morning in the Caribbean was 83 degrees; I won’t say I jumped in – not with snorkel, fins, and vest – but I did ease in without any hesitation. And it all came back to me: that feeling of floating, the stretching of arms and legs, and the wonderful sense of weightlessness.

Remembering Grand Cayman, I’ll return to the pool at home and try again.

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Big vs. Small

Regal Princess, the ship we are on, is the largest in the Princess fleet. It holds 3600 passengers and 1500 crew members; and, really, it doesn’t seem crowded at all. Still, after two weeks on the Regal last spring and another two weeks this time around, I’ve decided I like the smaller ships (That would be the 1500 passenger range.) better.

There’s a certain “vibe” to a ship, as strange as that seems. If you’ve sailed only once, you might not notice. But when you’ve been on a variety of ships, you have a basis for comparison.

The Regal is about flashy entertainment, specialty dining experiences, and more structured game options. This translates to more singers and dancers, more comedians, more food, and more ways for passengers to participate in shows that test their knowledge of their mates, their ability to recall trivia, their recognition of lyrics from songs of various decades, and – generally – more ways to look foolish.

I’m not against looking foolish; that’s part of the charm of being on a cruise vacation. At the same time, I’ve had enough of the “more” concept.

I can’t name all the Princess ships we’ve been on, but I do remember the ones I liked best. The Crown Princess, for instance, had a cozy coffee café, while the Regal is more like an assembly line. Several older ships have a real promenade deck that actually circles the entire ship; the Regal doesn’t. If you want to get some walking exercise, you have to fight the winds on the eighteenth deck instead of the seventh (the standard promenade deck). On older ships the specialty restaurants were secluded from the general areas; on the Regal they’re not.

I imagine a lot of this has to do with money. When you are the largest ship in the fleet, you are probably the most costly. So it’s important to get passengers to sign up for all the activities, particularly the ones that are extra. Perhaps they’re more apt to do this when the options are front and center.

I will say that large or small doesn’t matter when it comes to service. Occasionally we’ll overhear some other passenger complaining, but we have never had anything but the highest level of attention from every crew member on every ship we’ve sailed.

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A List

Lists are all the rage these days to the point where they are passing themselves off as good writing. I don’t agree, but that’s a different blog. So here is a list of new things Earl and I have tried on this current cruise.

Sushi – We’ve eaten Sushi before, but never in a specialty restaurant aboard a ship. It was delicious, and we’re going back. I’m getting oyster shooters next time.

Breakfast in the Dining Room – Usually we have breakfast in our cabin to stay away from the Buffet and its calorie-laden options. But we learned there is a third alternative: breakfast in the dining room where one is served. It’s very quiet and genteel in a British sort of way. You should have seen Earl trying to crack his soft boiled eggs.

Movies Under the Stars­ – A wonderful experience, where the pool area on the sixteenth deck is turned into a modern version of a drive-in movie, minus the cars. The screen is gimongous, larger than a regular movie theatre. And there are first-run films and blankets and cocktails. But popcorn is nowhere in sight.

Norman Rockwell – Princess ships are big on art auctions; every now and then one includes Norman Rockwell lithos. We really like Norman Rockwell art, so when such works find themselves on the same cruise we’re on, it demands that we take a look. So far, we haven’t seen something that really calls to us.

Line Dancing on the Top Deck – Earl was smart enough to stay in our cabin for this one, while I went up top. Every ship we’ve been on has had country line dancing, but this was the first to have it in wind so strong I could hardly stand up. “Achy-breaky Heart” was more like “Windy-bendy Anne.” I boot-scooted out of there at the break.

Football, Super-sized – Given that January weekends in the United States are all about professional football playoffs, it’s no wonder the various games were televised. So it was back to the big screen on the sixteenth deck to see various teams advance toward the Super Bowl. Earl’s team, the Bears, wasn’t in the playoffs; so he rooted for the Broncos instead in honor of our Denver relatives. Judging from the crowd’s reaction, there were plenty of Bronco fans onboard.

Choir – Every cruise has a passenger choir that practices 2-3 times and then performs in the Piazza for other passengers and crew. This was the first time Earl decided to lend his voice to such an endeavor, and he commandeered me as his personal photographer for the actual performance. The songs were all from “The Sound of Music,” which is one of my least favorite musical scores. Still, by the time the pop choir finished its performance my eyes were blinking back tears of pride.

We still have six days to go, so perhaps there will be an addendum to this list. If so, it will be in paragraph form.

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Life on the Open Seas

I am struck with how a cruise ship could be a television soap opera complete with all kinds of passengers and all kinds of crew. There are the passengers who cannot be satisfied, regardless of how tender the filet or how perfect the cocktail. And the passengers, mostly first timers, who are in awe of everything.

There are crew members who are veterans, like our current room steward who has been doing this for eleven years.  He’s told us this is his last contract, finished in June, and he’ll never come back.  I imagine he’s seen a lot of changes in those years, as have Earl and I.

And like the passengers, there are also first-time crew members.  I haven’t met any so far on this cruise, but I have met a woman who works in the spa who is only on her second contract.

This morning the Captain came on the public address system to say that one passenger was being evacuated by helicopter for medical reasons, and that it required various restrictions for part of the ship so that the helicopter could land safely.  Some passengers had to leave their cabins. Over the next couple hours he kept us posted as the situation unfolded. And when it was done he thanked everyone, especially a couple whose wedding was postponed because of the helicopter’s arrival.

So it goes: yin and yang. A vacation ended by a medical emergency and a life together temporarily delayed by the same event. Some passengers leaving tomorrow, while others staying on.  The same with crew members.  It’s a modern version of the Love Boat.

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St. Maarten

My favorite Caribbean island is St. Maarten because it represents what collaboration can do.  Sixty percent of the land belongs to the French with the capital at Marigot.  The other forty percent belongs to the Dutch with the capital at Philipsburg.  The cruise ships dock here. It’s the tiniest island in the world inhabited by two different countries.  There is no border between them and no visible antagonism either.

Over the years, I’ve kayaked in the French side, learned to ride a Segway on the Dutch side, and generally loved the scenery, the people, and the cuisine on both sides.  If I were to spend time on one Caribbean island, rather than hopping from one to another via a cruise ship, it would be St. Maarten.

Tradition has it that a Frenchman and a Dutchman divided the island by means of a walk-off.  However, the Dutch side was founded in 1763 and the French side was founded in 1767. So there is some confusion here.  What isn’t confusing is that St. Maarten has everything: fantastic weather, great sailing conditions, two different cultures, spectacular food, miles of sandy beach, and a unique zoo that features plants and animals that are indigenous to the Caribbean.

And while the Dutch prefer the guilder as their currency and the French prefer the Euro, the US dollar is accepted everywhere.  What could be easier?

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Sailing

I’ve never been a devotee of sailing even though Earl has tried hard to convert me over the years. But when the mast breaks and falls off the boat during your first sailing lesson, he’s working against overwhelming odds.

Still . . . Earl convinced me to participate in a regatta in St. Maarten’s that simulated the famous America’s Cup races. That meant a racing boat, no motor on board, and everyone given a job to make our boat cross the finish line first. I opted to be the bartendress.

Let it be noted that racing boats do not have bathroom facilities, which made my job easier as most of the women declined a beer. The men were less cautious.

I approached this race with the idea that I only had to endure the next two hours, and it would be over. I wrapped myself in a towel, found a place to sit near the cooler that was the bar, and prepared to clench my teeth. The captain and his two mates gave instructions while one woman, who seemed more anxious than I, became seasick. The countdown began.

Even though one of the mates explained the course and the competition, I didn’t understand a thing other than we would be tilting (This is not the technical term.) at a fifty degree angle. That’s pretty precarious from my perspective, so I made sure to hunker low and hold on.

Perhaps it was the wind, which was light, or the Caribbean waters, which are enticing, or the comradery of group, which was instantaneous.  (Sailors are like that.) Or perhaps it was because we won the race. Because, in spite of my trepidation, I had a great time aboard the Canada II.

Yes, Earl, I’d do it again.

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St. Thomas

Over the years, St. Thomas in the US Virgin Islands has been the go-to destination for cruise ships. The island is part of the United States; English is the native tongue; and the shopping is unparalleled.  Especially if you’re in the market for gemstones, watches, or rum.

On our first visit in 2001, Earl and I didn’t actually explore St. Thomas.  Instead, we took a speed boat from there to St. John’s where we learned to snorkel.  However, subsequent visits saw us doing the shopping thing: we bought watches, scarves, and even our wedding rings. But the most extravagant thing ever was a one carat yellow diamond I bought on a whim for more than my first car. That was in 2006.

In 2008, we bought a Bob Marley wig for Earl to wear when the opportunity presented itself.  Now both the yellow diamond and the wig have moved on. One was sold; the other given to the Goodwill.

Today on our current cruise, we visited Magen’s Bay, touted as one of the top ten beaches in the world.  Perhaps it was because we’d heard about it for so long that it didn’t live up to the hype. I expected a romantic café with Pina Coladas accompanying a delightful lunch as we watched the tide roll in, jostling happy bathers of all ages. Instead, it was a public beach with tourist prices for a bottle of water and a can of Pringles®. Still it was relaxing.

When Earl and I first started cruising, he said to me, “This is something we can do in our old age.” I smiled and thought old age was definitely far in the future. Fifteen years later on Magen’s Bay, I realized old age is now.

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Economics of Cruising

There are certain trends Earl and I have noticed in our fifteen years on board cruise ships. (We haven’t spent fifteen years continuously, you understand; only a couple weeks each year. But it’s enough to notice changes.)

You can have a wonderful time on a cruise for the base price, which includes lodging, all you can eat in various venues, swimming, and stops at ports of call. There’s also all kinds of entertainment from variety shows, singers, magicians, and comics to cooking demonstrations, napkin folding lessons, and puzzles of the day. However, if you want a cocktail, it’s extra. And if you want to take a special excursion any place you dock, that too is extra. It’s always been that way.

About three or four years ago, however, we noticed a lot more add-ons and a lot more salesmanship by the ship’s crew. Now when you board you’re invited to buy a coffee card or a cola card. For a flat price, you get a certain number of specialty coffees or cola throughout your cruise. Several years ago, the ships didn’t even serve lattes and cappuccinos.

There are also several restaurants that serve elaborate meals for an upcharge. And a sushi bar and a wine tasting bar, each for an additional fee. The high tea that used to be part of the basic package has now gone uptown as well. The spa services were always extra, but I noticed on this trip there was an accent on selling product along with one’s pedicure.

I understand costs have risen since 2001. I also see the argument that people should pay for a special service that not everyone wants, rather than rolling it into the base price for all to share. So with this point of view in mind, I’m recommending the next item for purchase outside the base price: smoothies. They are nowhere to be found on this voyage.

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