?`s and ANNEswers

Ten minutes to write. Less time to read.

In Country, Day One

My son Kevin has described an in-country experience, particularly when you don’t know the language or the layout, as a time when you feel lost and stupid.  This certainly describes Earl and me at the end of Day One in Copenhagen.

Since we had to get off the ship early, we made our way to the Andersen Hotel in hopes of storing our bags and heading out to sightsee.  But our room was ready at 10 AM – Imagine that! – so we settled in and then headed out.

A few blocks from our hotel, we discovered the Hop On-Hop Off bus, a marvelous way to see any foreign city.  You pay one fee to see many sights and can hop off at any of them for a closer view before hopping on to the next one. Actually we’ve done this in Key West too.

We saw Tivoli Gardens from the outside (just four blocks from our hotel), the Little Mermaid up close and personal, Hans Christian Andersen’s home, and many royal residences as well as public buildings. We even visited a local grocery story and were surprised that there were no big shopping carts, only little baskets.  But when there are more bicycles in Copenhagen than there are cars, you probably just purchase what fits in your basket. Lemons and limes, by the way, are about the same price as they are where I live in Michigan.

We learned that Denmark is a monarchy in the same fashion that Great Britain is; the Queen and her family are well loved, but she has little power these days.  It wasn’t always so.  Recorded Danish history goes back at least twelve hundred years and includes the Vikings, conversion to Christianity, the famous King Christian IV, more than one great fire, and occupation by the Germans in World War II.

We also learned that many Danes helped their Jewish citizens to immigrate to Sweden, which was not occupied during the war.  In addition they tended their gardens and livestock; so when the war was over returning Jews fared much better than they had in Amsterdam, for example.

We ended the evening with dinner at a local restaurant where the bill was 600 Danish Kroner; in American money, that’s about one hundred dollars.  And, as we drifted to sleep, we heard someone yelling in Danish outside our window; perhaps it was Hamlet’s ghost.

Copenhagen has never been on my Travel To-Do list, but after a day in the city I’m glad we’re staying over. Feeling lost and stupid has been worth it.

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Last Day

Today is our last day on the Regal Princess, as it is for about 1500 other passengers. (Another one thousand are staying on eleven more days and going to St. Petersburg.)

Those of us who are history tomorrow are cramming as much as possible today.

The breakfast buffet was abnormally crowded, and – as I write this — people are already queued up for the last Pub Lunch of the cruise.  The line at the Passenger Services desk is formidable, and the number of people attending the final Zumba class in the Piazza is dizzying.  I won’t tell them they’re not going to work off all they ate in seventeen days in one hour. Heck, it would be the pot calling the kettle black.

Earl’s rented tuxedo has been whisked away, and as soon as I finish the last 40 pages of an Anne Perry mystery, I’m taking it back to the ship’s library.  Bingo and trivia games continue unabated. So does the casino and the art auction.

We’ve already made a reservation for dinner for two for this evening. After that, we’ll pull out our suitcases and begin the return to reality.  Even though we’re staying three days in Copenhagen before flying home, reality is when you have to fend for yourself without 1300 staff members eager to please you.

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Mr. Bock

Mr. Bock was Earl’s high school German teacher about sixty-five years ago.  I’d heard about him from time to time, mostly how he wasn’t able to explain his native language to Earl, who is half German, and how he cut his own hair.  Earl was certain his teacher had been a refugee from the war.

Today Mr. Bock redeemed himself.

We had a little time to ourselves during our scheduled bus tour, so we visited a shop on the City Hall Square in Hamburg.  It was the only one open at 9 AM in the morning, which is why it caught our attention.

A large sign with a heart and the words “Muttertag” greeted us.  Even I, who never took German, recognized that the store was promoting Mother’s Day.  Boxes of candy, wrapped in pink and white, surrounded “Muttertag.”

But Earl’s attention was drawn to a smaller sign.  He studied it a couple moments and then said:  “Always love your mother. That’s what the sign says.” A smile crossed his almost eighty-year-old face.

“I guess I can thank Mr. Bock after all,” he said.

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Hamburg

We just returned from a half-day tour of Hamburg, Germany.  And, no, the hamburger wasn’t created here; according to our guide, it was created in the United States.  He did say, however, that the residents of his city are called Hamburgers, so I suspect they get a lot of teasing from clueless Americans.

I knew very little of Hamburg before our tour, but our guide Jorge did his best to educate us.

Hamburg was founded by Charlemagne in the ninth century.  In the twelfth century, Frederick Barbarosa gave it a certificate that, for lack of a better explanation, made the city an independent city-state enabling it to conduct free trade on the Elbe River.  We saw impressive statues of both men at the City Hall.

The Elbe flows into the larger seas surrounding northern Germany, which enabled Hamburg to develop as a significant seaport.

The city was devastated by a great fire in 1842, but rebuilt.  One hundred years later it was devastated by bombs in World War II.  Again, it was rebuilt; so it is common to see very modern architecture standing next to buildings that are two- and three- hundred years old. It makes for an interesting historical perspective and equally interesting photo opportunities.

Our tour passed many of the major monuments, churches, and civic buildings as Jorge described each.  Clearly, his English was better than my German would ever be, and it made me wonder if tourists coming to the major cities in the United States are able to find guides who speak in their native languages.  I hope so.

The final stop on our tour was a snack shop where we were treated to a beverage – hot chocolate, coffee, or beer – and German pastries.  You would have thought the passengers on our bus hadn’t eaten in days the way they devoured everything. Or perhaps it’s become a way of life.

Cold turkey begins in two days.

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Anne Frank

She wanted to be a journalist when she grew up.  And the truth is that while she was denied a long life, her journalistic skills have been heard around the world.

The Diary of Anne Frank details her life in hiding in Amsterdam from 1942 to 1944 in a Secret Annex her father had prepared when the Germans made life too miserable for the Jewish population in Holland.

There were four in Anne’s family plus four others who lived in secrecy above a warehouse. Today Earl and I toured the garret where they hid for over two years in hope of waiting out the German occupation.  Over secret radio transmissions, they learned that the Allies were making great strides in reclaiming Western Europe from the Germans.  It’s not known if they knew specifically of D-Day, but one can assume they’d heard encouraging news in the weeks following the invasion.

Then on August 4, 1944 the eight were discovered and sent first to Auschwitz and then to Bergen-Belsen.  Only the father, Otto, survived. Eventually he returned to Amsterdam where a loyal associate gave him a variety of documents she’d taken and hidden after the arrests.  Among them was his daughter’s red and white checked diary.

Anne Frank and her sister, Margot, died approximately one month before Bergen-Belsen was liberated in early 1945. How painful it must have been for Otto to re-read his daughter’s words, particularly her belief that people were inherently good, and realize how close the family came to surviving.

There is a video of Otto Frank in the Anne Frank House where he says he never realized how mature his daughter was at the time, as he’d never read her diary while she was writing it. Ultimately he chose to make the work public.

Perhaps this was his way of helping Anne realize her dream.

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Joseph Woodbury

Today Earl and I visited Normandy, the primary purpose of this cruise.  We’d originally planned to see it on a similar cruise in November, 2013; but weather intervened and we never made it.

Today we did, and a brief blog doesn’t describe all we saw. Or felt.

By motorbus, we experienced Juno Beach, where the British landed; Arromanches, where the Allies built a floating dock for their supply vessels; the Normandy cemetery where 9387 Americans are buried; Omaha Beach, where most of them died; and Pointe du Hoc, where the Germans had a stronghold that needed to be taken early on for the success of the rest of the invasion.  It was, although the casualties were great.

Earl’s father had landed on Normandy, not in the first wave but later.  So naturally Earl was most interested in information about his father’s Eighth Infantry Division.  We tracked its movements from more than one map.

And me?

I found Private Joseph Woodbury of Michigan. It was quite by accident, although his being from Michigan seems appropriate.  His white marble cross bore his name, rank, and the date of his death:  June 7, 1944, D-Day plus one. There was nothing more, except . . .

On the day Joseph Woodbury died, I was born.

 

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India

Today was another sea day, so we visited India.  My friend Carol would have loved it, since she has been attracted to that country for as long as I can remember.  In fact, she and her son are going there in several weeks.

Don’t worry, Carol; we didn’t take a fast jet there and back.  Instead the 140 crew members of the kitchen staff who come from India put on a feast of their native dishes along with a demonstration of traditional costumes and dances. It was delightful.

The announcer said there were one hundred different dishes for passengers to sample and that they represented the cuisines of the various regions of India. Earl and I took our turn in line and chose items we thought looked recognizable: chicken, rice, flat bread, fish, things that looked like crabcakes, things that looked like ice cream, and a delicious hot chai tea.

We don’t have an Indian restaurant where we live, so our exposure to this type of food is minimal. However, we both agreed that, given an opportunity, we would try it again.  The only problem is we won’t know what to order, since all the selections today were described by their Indian names.

Carol, maybe we’ll invite you and your husband to help.

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Blarney Castle

It was thirty-five years ago that I last was at Blarney Castle, and I have a photo to prove that two husky Irishmen eased me over the edge of the high wall to kiss the famous stone back then. For the record, it was half my life ago.

Today Earl and I roamed the castle grounds while I reminisced and he represented the newcomer’s view. I recalled the pathway across the grounds to the castle’s edge that I’d walked with my two sons; he took photos. I tried to reconcile my memories with the current view; he took photos. And I silently vowed to contact Kevin, my older son, and ask what he remembered of that original trip.

Earl preserved this one for us.

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Kudos to the Crew

One thing I like about cruise ships is the pleasantness and politeness of the crew.

For instance, we have moved our clocks ahead five nights in a row as we crossed time zones.  It means the crew loses an hour of sleep a night, since the switch is made at 2:00 AM.  And when you work a twelve hour day, the effect is cumulative. The passengers, on the other hand, just sleep an extra hour.

Still, every crew member we meet greets us pleasantly regardless of the time of day or lack of sleep. “Good morning, Madam.” “Good afternoon, Sir.” “Your wish is our command. “In fifteen years of cruising, I have never encountered a surly crew member, and I wonder how they do it.

Turnaround Day is particularly taxing, as yesterday’s passengers disembark while today’s guests are chomping at the bit to board.  In between, the crew prepares the ship for the next passage. Change linen in all the staterooms, restock the bars, take on fuel and foodstuffs – all the while being courteous to the departing and the arriving in equal measure.

The Captain comes on the public address system from time to time, and we all stop to listen.  On this cruise, it was his decision to change course; and I respect him for his knowledge and authority. But, really, it’s the room stewards and the restaurant staff and the other crew members who are the real face of cruising.

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Vladimir and the Talisman

The two memories of Ponta Delgada we’ll recall when this trip is in the books are a brightly colored rooster and an unexpected stop for beer, both dependent on a credit card and Earl’s curiosity.

We’d been inside the local church, admired a couple lovely parks with their weird trees, and sat on a couple benches before wandering down a bumpy, narrow street. It was there we saw a souvenir shop that displayed the MasterCard logo on its door. Since we hadn’t been able to use the ATM successfully, looking for that sign became the criterion on which we entered an establishment.

Earl has a quirky sense of humor, and he spied a ceramic rooster in the window.  “Wouldn’t this look great in our home?” he asked. I actually liked the black stylized figure with the fancily painted wings and tail, but I’m more practical. “How much is it?”  “How will you get it home?”

Earl was ready: It wasn’t expensive; he would wrap it between his sweaters in his luggage, and the Waterford he’d planned to store there would be sent from the factory in Ireland instead.

Seems like he really wanted the rooster.

As we paid, the proprietor gave us a little brochure that explained the historical importance of this souvenir.  It saved a man’s life years ago, but I won’t go into that here.  Suffice to say the rooster seemed happy to be with us; and Earl named it Vladimir, after our Serbian server in the pizza restaurant on the ship.

This called for a celebration, but we couldn’t find a café with the MC symbol.  That is, until we passed the Hotel Talisman. I figured a hotel would certainly accept various credit cards, even if its door didn’t advertise. So we asked the hostess in the hotel café, who nodded and showed us to the bar.

Can a beer be charming?  Probably not, but both the bar and the hotel outdid themselves. I was so taken with the Hotel Talisman that I asked for a brochure at the reception desk.  If you want to see for yourself, go to www.hoteltalisman.com.

If I’m ever in Ponta Delgada again, that’s where I’m staying.

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